Expectations

I stood on the side of the road where the bus had dropped me off. I scanned the area for any sign of life, but found none. It was only 9 p.m. Not everyone in the small Irish town could be sleeping.

I was to be picked up at the bus station by someone. That's all I knew. I began to doubt that the chunk of sidewalk I was standing on could be labeled a bus station, so I began to walk in search of someone to confirm my whereabouts.

I came upon a market that appeared to be closing down. I asked the woman if that was the bus station.

"Only stop in town," she said.

I asked to use the restroom.

"You'll have to go to the pub next door," she said.

I was greeted, well, stared at, by four Irish guys who watched my every move as I approached them. The fact I had all my belongings strapped to my bag made it clear I wasn't from around here.

"Can I help you?" One of them said in an accent so strong it sounded fake.

"Guinness please," I said. I hadn't planned on ordering anything, but after seeing the company, I didn't want them to think I was taking advantage of them by using their toilet and leaving. They didn't seem like the type who would be pleased by that. Plus, I had caught an earlier bus than intended, so my mystery ride wouldn't be at the "station" for another few minutes.

When I arrived back from the bathroom I found my first true Irish Guinness waiting for me at the bar. I have heard from a handful of people that Guinness tastes much better in Ireland. I have concluded this is one of those things people just like to say to make them sound wordly. It tasted exactly the same to me. Delicious. But the same.

I reached for my pocket when the drunkest man I've ever seen shouted out, "I'll pay for ya drink."

"You don't have to do that," I said since that's what anyone who is offered something is supposed to say. "Are you sure?"

"Well, no, I'm not sure, but..."

His sentence trailed off, but he continued searching his pockets for coins. I introduced myself to the owner and the other two patrons. I have no idea what their names were or what they said, but their gestures were friendly, so I felt welcomed.

"I thought I was the richest man in the world," the drunk man said as he found no sign of money in his coat.

I was consuming the Guinness very quickly since the atmosphere wasn't the most comfortable situation I've been in and I didn't want to miss my ride from a stranger who would be appearing any minute.

"I don't mind paying for it," I said.

"No, no. I've got it."

It appeared I wasn't going to be able to leave this place.

"Thank you, but I've got to be on my way to meet my ride."

The owner said something and motioned for me to leave in a friendly way as if I needn't worry about paying for the beer.

"Good food here too, so be sure to come back," he said, at least I think.

I thanked the guy who technically hadn't paid for my drink but was determined to, thanked the owner, and walked out the door back into the ghost town.

Not more than a minute after standing at the bus stop, a police car pulled up to the curb.

"Are you Brian?" the officer asked.

"Yes," I said nervously, but knowing I had done nothing wrong.

"Okay, I'll be right back for ya."

The cop car pulled away as I stood confused. I was to stay the week with a girl I knew from university, and one of her relatives I had never met was to pick me up. I just didn't expect it to be a police officer.

I got in the car and immediately searched for confirmation.

"So, how do you know Colleen?" I asked.

He began speaking of someone I was not referring to.

"Um, actually I think Colleen is only 23 and has never been married."

He understood his mistake and corrected himself. He explained his connection to the family I was to be staying with, and it confirmed I was in good hands and wasn't, in fact, being arrested. I later found out Colleen's mother's name is Eileen. Colleen, Eileen, simple mistake.

He drove me to the next town over where I was transferred to another car, this time containing a familiar face. Colleen and her aunt drove me to meet the rest of the gang who were, not surprisingly, at the pub.

I found myself in the middle of an Irish family reunion. Over the course of the next week I would learn the names of every single aunt, uncle, brother, sister, cousin, and everyone else in Killarney for the 80th birthday of their father/grandfather. I had close to 50 names memorized. Not a simple task.

***

The Budweiser in Shane's hand stood out like a boy in the girls' bathroom. It just didn't belong, and everyone around knew it.

"I see you're back to mineral water," said uncle Denis, who like every other male at the pub, had a Guinness or Murphy's stout in hand.

Shane, Colleen's brother, tried to defend himself but knew there wasn't much hope. There's not much you can do when you receive shit from this family, and a lot of it gets dished out.

I'm not sure any other place I've been has fit my stereotype of it before arriving like Ireland did, which is not a bad thing. Gloomy skies, scattered rain, rolling green hills, witty people who love to laugh and joke, Guinness, heading to the pub every night, big families, generous folks. I didn't see a great deal of Ireland, but I felt very fortunate to be a part of the family gathering. I didn't have to follow the tourist trail. I got to see the real Ireland, a lot of which looked like the inside of a pub.

***

After a two-hour car ride, a six-hour wait in the Shannon airport, an hour-long flight, a pair of buses and a ride on the tube in London, I arrived at Mary's house. I was very glad we had the chance to reunite since I had been so sick the last time we saw each other. Throughout my six months on the road, I believe this marked the first time I returned to a place. It was strange seeing something familiar since everything has been about the unfamiliar on this trip. Strange but good.

After two days we said goodbye again. She left for Amsterdam, I was off for Africa soon. I met up with my sister-in-law's cousin on the south side of the city for a couple nights. I just got back from the store to gather the remainder of the items on my list for what to take to Africa. Most of it revolves around bugs and how to keep them away. I don't know what to expect, and I like that very much.